October
12
09:30
Beauty // Cosmetics and perfumes

The whole truth about nanokosmetika

Less - means better
often on the label of a cream you can read the inscription that "components affect only the superficial layers of the dermis."The fact that the size of the majority of molecules of substances in cosmetics, are enormous compared to the micropores in the skin layers, and so they can not penetrate further than the upper layer of the epidermis.That is why the best minds spent more than a year to create cosmetics that could get to them.

Initially scientists invented liposomes.Initially, these tiny balls that can penetrate through the intercellular space, used in medicine, but in the early 1980s, took over the baton to cosmetic companies.New technology is a breakthrough in anti-aging care, because useful components balls filled liposomes safely overcome the epidermal barrier and reach deeper layers of the skin where their shells dissolve, and the active substances rushed to the cells.Thanks liposomes managed to ensure better preservation of fragile ingredients (for example, oxidizes rap
idly in air vitamins), but the liposomes themselves were very unstable: the means of them have the shelf life of no more than 12-14 months.In addition, very often the shell of liposomes dissolve before they reach the dermis.A series of attempts to improve the technology, so there were, for example, spherulites - stronger multi-sphere, gradually release active ingredients as penetration into the skin.However, a truly new era occurred only with the blossoming of nanotechnology.

Size matters
compared to nanoparticles ("applied" in Greek - dwarf) liposomes seem to be just the giants: the size used in cosmetics applied typically 10-20 nm, whereas liposomes - it 200-600.And as studies of Israeli scholars who pioneered the development nanokosmetiki so small size allows them to seamlessly and without loss to reach the intended target - the dermis.There nanosomes and begin their work: remove toxins, improve cell regeneration, and restore them, are struggling with aging.

Following nanosomes appeared nanocomplexes - carefully selected beauty cocktails, each component of which ground to nano.

Nanopanatseya or nanougroza?
According to research at Lancaster University in the UK in recent years, most patents related to nanoparticles, is by no means to care for skin and hair.Basically cosmetics manufacturers use in their products substance whose molecules are not able to penetrate deep into the skin.However, there are other - small particles which can seep through the pores and thus enter the bloodstream.That they and alarming scientists.Nanoparticles are generally very suspicious - though the fact that they have different chemical and physical properties than the normal size of the molecule.

Today, no one can say for sure that nanokosmetika absolutely harmless, or, on the contrary, harmful: to answer these questions, you need more than one year of research.Experts know that with the use of materials nanoizhenerii hypothetical risk.But many of them still can not give a definite answer to the question whether there is a real risk.Although there are more categorical minded scientists who compare nanotechnology monsters Frankenstein: The best minds are not yet aware that they have created, because the effect of these particles on the human body has to learn.Thus, a number of studies have shown that nanoparticles can promote the formation of free radicals which destroy or alter the DNA of cells.

couple of years ago, there is evidence that, for example, silver nanoparticles (known antiseptic and a popular ingredient in many cosmetic products and preparations for external application) if it enters into cells can cause a number of negative developments, including violations at the DNA level.Even more than nanokosmetika, scientists worried about the safety of dietary supplements with nanoparticles.And the organization of "green" in general in favor of a temporary ban on the sale nanokosmetiki and other commodities - is the safety of their use has not been proven conclusively.

To avoid known biases, many cosmetic giants do not have one patent on nanoelements, avoid the use of the prefix "nano", to use such momentum, as "the technology of microencapsulation", "microparticles" or "mikroliposomy."

possible, but carefully ?!
Today, about one-tenth the size of investments in the billions of dollars, attributable to the branch of nanotechnology, is spent on the study of their safety for human health and the environment.But, according to many scientists, these amounts still not enough.

Another problem - too few research results are widely publicized.

Nakokomponenty today can be found in the part of many cocktails for mesotherapy.The latest novelty in the nanokosmetologii - technology Airgent, based on subcutaneous administration of hyaluronic acid-enriched nanoparticles of active nutrients.After the procedure, the tone of the skin, reduces wrinkles, increases collagen and elastin production, and most importantly, the skin becomes thicker and thicker as it were, and in fact that happens with age thinning of the skin - one of the main problems with which it is difficult to fight even the most advanced achievements of modern cosmetology.

Another popular procedure - laser nanoperforatsiya, during which the laser makes a lot of pinholes on the skin (or rather, nanoholes), treated the problem areas of skin with wrinkles, stretch marks, bursting blood vessels, dilated pores.

Such directional exposure stimulates the regeneration of cells, collagen and elastin, the skin relief is leveled, and she becomes more elastic.

creams and other cosmetic products, where nanoelements presented not one or two ingredients, and account for a large part of the formula are pretty decent, but the effect of exposure to funds-antieydzh nanocomplexes is comparable with the results of plastic surgery: age wrinkles disappear, pulled oval face... But, of course, should choose their specialist dermatologist: for independent action is too great a chance that you will start to shoot a gun on sparrows.

A of paralegals (such cosmetics in Russia is strongly discredited by the fact that the principle applies but the network marketing) is more harm than good.

other side of the coin - in recent years, the prefix "nano" has become very fashionable.

And if the label says "nanokrem" or "nanoshampun" that often it is the presence in it of a single component of the nano-sized, and sometimes like the name at all and is advertising ploy.Therefore, if nanokosmetika draws your attention, it is better to prefer brands with a reputation.And be sure to listen to dermatocosmetology, recalls that it has an even more active part than professional beauty products, so no individual approach and advice to competent staff here can not do!

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