October
08
12:30
Beauty // Cosmetics and perfumes

Russian perfumery - aromatic products

story begins Russian perfume, as they say, "for health."Foreign perfumers who are not too lucky at home, moved to Russia, where it unfolded in full.And the Russian "noses", well after studying abroad or work as apprentices, "gave" their talents homeland: Russian perfumery - aromatic products is becoming increasingly popular.In the late XIX - early XX centuries across the country rang A. Ferrein names and suppliers of the Imperial Court - A. Ostroumova G. Brocard, rally A. and A. Siu - known not only in Russia but also abroad.For instance, Alexander Ostroumov famously invented the soap from dandruff, and later opened his own perfume factory.


famous "nose»
Alphonse rally supplying Russian perfumery - aromatic products not only Imperial Court, but also of His Majesty the Shah of Persia and His Highness the Prince of Montenegro.His firm has received four times the State Emblem of Russia - the highest award mark is awarded for high quality products.That factory "A.Rally & Co. "started as a laboratory a

ssistant, Ernest Bo (author of the famous Chanel № 5).If not for the revolution, which forced the talented perfumer to emigrate, he would take the post of director of the company, and who knows what then would be the alignment of the "world perfume deck."Another trump card of pre-revolutionary Russian perfumery - Henry Brocard.This hereditary "nose" - a native of France.Arriving in Russia, he opened his case and initially took up the issue is not the spirits, and perfumed soaps.Many people in their work, Henry owes his wife - Charlotte.It was she who told him a win-win: sell cheap "deluxe" soap (unusual shape) - spherical and with printed letters of the alphabet.Brokarovskaya advertising has become a byword.When you open one of the company stores offered customers "sell advertising: just a ruble you could buy a set consisting of ten items, which included perfume, cologne, lutestring, vinegar dressing, jelly, powder, puff, sachets, lipstick, soap.The excitement was such that the police had to close the store.


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Russian perfumery - aromatic products - cologne "Flower" - also shook the whole of Moscow.At the All-Russian industrial and artistic exhibition was built, "sweet" fountain, in which anyone could dip scarf, gloves and even coat.The idea was so successful that the "Flower" has become Russia's first mass cologne.When arrived in Moscow on a visit Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna, Brocard gave her as a gift a bouquet of wax flowers - roses, lilies, violets, daffodils.And each flower was otdushen corresponding odor.Delighted Maria Alexandrovna perfumer bestowed the title of his court supplier.

Partnership "Brocard and Co" has grown so much that the Russian perfumery was referred to as the "Empire Brocard", and his incense delivered for sale in many European countries.At various international exhibitions factory won 14 gold medals, became the supplier not only of the Russian Imperial Court, but also the Spanish royal house and the sign of the company flaunted three state coat of arms, proving the highest quality goods.

If Brocard started as a soap-boiler, the perfumer Adolphe Sioux - as a manufacturer of biscuits and cakes.With a fairly decent income from the confectionery business, I decided to do the Sioux and perfume, and so successful in this business that became Imperial Court to supply not only their cakes, but also spirits.His incense belonged to the "high perfumery" and were not available to all.In short, the perfume industry has flourished in pre-revolutionary Russia.Then came the 1917 ...

Actresses beginning of XX century the spirits A. Ostroumova Catherine Geltser, ballerina of the Bolshoi Theatre, "When I dance in" Le Corsaire ", always use perfume Violette ...» Elena Podolsky, a soloist of the opera "Your spirits "Ideal" surround me such delightful atmosphere that inhaling them, I go, both in dreams fragrant flowers. "Raisa Reisen, an actress of the Maly Theatre: "If Napoleon dushilsya Ostroumovskaya" Napoleon "Josephine would never have cheated on him not to."


Phoenix, reborn from the ashes

post-revolutionary Russia ... On the agenda: the eradication of the entire bourgeois.And including perfumes - the most bourgeois of all bourgeois production areas.The new country is breathing smoke factories healthy worker sweat and pure body.Soldiers and people need only soap - and nothing else.The rest - the bourgeois remnants.As a result, all the perfume factories received serial numbers and turned into soap factories.The company began to rally "the State soap factory number 4", and later - the State of soap and cosmetic factory "Freedom.""Brocard" turned into a "State soapy perfume plant number 5" (later in the "New Dawn"), "Sioux" - in the factory "Bolshevik", "Bodley & Co." - in the factory "Dawn".

During the NEP production of spirits renewed, but during the Stalin era quickly came "out" - superfluous.The "struggle" with Stalin for domestic perfume entered the most elegant woman of the Soviet elite, "the second lady of the USSR," Molotov's wife Polina Pearl.She was replaced as the first director of the "New Dawn" A. Zvezdova, transferred to another post.Later, Pearl led the Trust "Zhirkost" unites all perfume and cosmetics company, a few years later she was appointed Chief of the perfumery and cosmetics, synthetic and soap industry.This pearl of the Pauline managed to convince Stalin to destroy perfumes, she was able to prove that the "Fragrances - promising area, profitable and very useful to the people."And even persuaded the "father of the peoples" to "good" for the provision of essential oils perfume businesses.So the Russian perfumes found a second, relatively decent life.


In 1930 was held
specialization Russian perfumery - aromatic products and production - perfumery departments of factories "Freedom" and "Bolshevik" taken over by the "New Dawn".So "New Dawn" had a monopoly on the issue of perfumes.There were other perfume and cosmetic factory in the Soviet republics, but they do not define "perfume party policy."

on the agenda perfume factories was a serious question: how to ensure that the spirits reflected the policy of the party?It produced important rule: forget exquisite bouquet and unusual ingredients.Flavors need working people, and therefore must be simple, understandable and "strengthen love for the motherland."Many people today notice that the spirits of the Soviet era were quite rude and abrupt and aromatic palette remained poor.

Gradually, however, a small step for domestic perfumery small step "win" the lost ground.From brokarovskih "bins" battered forgotten formulas domestic "noses" are taken for experiments developed area "elite perfumery".Phoenix rising from the ashes.Naturally, the first violin played "New Dawn", her perfume was wildly popular (good, there was no competition, and foreign incense Soviet citizen does not even dreamed of).The company presented its fragrances at international exhibitions and even received prestigious awards.Today, the famous spirits company - "Red Moscow", "black casket", "Blue casket", "Stone Flower" - are sold as curiosities at insane prices.Russian perfumery area flourished as a prosperous and any business for "Iron Curtain" in the absence of serious competition.But once the thunder struck - the economic crisis, the decline in production, the collapse of the Soviet Union ...


again "from scratch»

When the domestic market flooded with Western products, Russian companies producing Russian perfumery - aromatic products could not competeand went into the shadows.Of course, after the collapse of the production of Russian masters had to start virtually "from scratch" - learn from the West, remember the "antiquated methods" and try to pave his own road to hozhenom-perehozhenom field of perfumery.However, to revive the pre-revolutionary tradition of perfume - a thankless task.Formula designed a century ago, and based on only a limited number of natural ingredients that are outdated today, and "look" at least obsolete.Domestic chemical laboratories inferior to Western for equipment and can not afford to create original fine ingredients.Also bred many illegal factories that produce low-quality products, and there was a huge number of fakes.As a result, the Russian buyer has finally lost confidence in the "native" brand and prefers to use the products of Western companies.Today domestic perfumery is more like an unreasonable child.Uncertain attempts to interest the consumer is taking the "New Dawn", rather, its next incarnation - «Nouvelle Etoile».Original flavors sometimes scare her inelegant name."Time of Women", "Mania Night", "So beautiful," "Shalunya charming", "Life in Pink", "Follow me at night" - sounds more like a joke.Other fragrances, experts say, "hear" the smells of Western spirits, "Kuznetsky Most" like Climat by Lancome, «Russian Beauty" - for Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel, «Talisman love" - ​​of Angel by Thierry Mugler.Design of packages and bottles - boring and uninviting - is considerably inferior to the foreign registration.And advertising is poor.In short, if domestic firms dare to finally regain the consumer (and foreign brands now control more than 60% of Russia's "fragrant" market), the struggle to be serious.However, the "third age" of Russian perfumery is just beginning, and possibly it is at its height, from which once collapsed.


NOUVELLE ETOILE

This is not foreign companies, and our native "New Dawn".The company has ten years of cooperating with French partners, and many flavors of the factory was developed in French laboratories.The logical continuation of this cooperation was the renaming of the company.